This past weekend was quite an experience! Not one I would have ever expected in France. A bonding experience, to say the least, for me and Anushka and Rachel.
I barely escaped with my life from a riot in Marseille!!
Here's how it happened.
On Saturday we went to Marseille, ostensibly for me to do some research for a history presentation, but when we asked at the Office of Tourism, they said there wasn't much to see. Since we were in the city anyway, we walked around some, and hung out with Rachel's friend Flo, a French boy who goes to university in Marseille. We were ready to head back to Aix, but he convinced us on the spur of the moment to stay and watch a soccer
match between Algeria and Egypt, which is a big deal in Marseille because there are a lot of immigrants of Algerian origin and it's part of the qualifying rounds for the World Cup. We'd seen some people getting hyped about it, honking their horns and sporting their flags.
match between Algeria and Egypt, which is a big deal in Marseille because there are a lot of immigrants of Algerian origin and it's part of the qualifying rounds for the World Cup. We'd seen some people getting hyped about it, honking their horns and sporting their flags.
So we decided, why not? It could be a fun cultural experience. A little more than we bargained for. After watching the match in a bar in the Algerian quarter, then heading to the place of a friend of Flo's, we decided it was time to head out. Flo suggested we take the train back to Aix instead of the bus, since Algeria lost the game, but we figured, how bad could it really be? We didn't hear or see any riots going on. He was probably exaggerating. He's treated us kind of condescendingly throughout the evening so there may or may not have been a hint of spite involved . . . We didn't see anything out of the ordinary, but when we got to the bus station, on the street right over there was a pretty crazy riot going on--crowds, noise, cars honking, shouting, fires, smoke, sparkler/firework materials . . . so maybe Flo had a point. We thought we'd wait for our bus in a McDonalds, thinking the mob wouldn't reach that far--bad idea--a fire started right nearby, crazy Algeria fans started throwing things at the windows--and didn't stop. Pretty soon they shattered all the floor-length windows, and the security guards were telling us to get to the back for shelter. We huddled in a store room, realizing there wasn't a very good way out, and we were scared that the locals were scared. I knew the Marseillais are known for being distinctive (no one ever said exactly how, just "oh, yes, the people from Marseille . . .") and the French like to have demonstrations, but this was a little dangerous! And scary! And violent! The police had been stationed several blocks away in anticipation of the riots, and they chased away the offenders. We ran outside to the bus stop, passing a line of police in full-out helmets and riot-stopping gear, then watched from the safetly of the bus as giant trash bins were set on fire and smoke covered the night sky, hazing over the street lights. We were rather shaken up! The worst part was that Flo was right!
Remember the pictures of enthousiastic supporters? This is what it devolved into. Big change. We were just glad to be ok. Oh Marseille, who are you? Why do you have to be so hard to deal with? My host family was kind of concerned, but not at all surprised. "Oh, yes, the French and their riots," commented my host brother. "They don't respect McDo very much, so that wasn't a good idea," he added. Thanks. I'll keep that in mind next time there are riot conditions. I didn't capture the riot on film (though Anushka and Rachel were brave enough to take a couple shots), but I felt justified to look the next day and find that the demonstration had made it into some news articles. It was fire and smoke and looked like the end of the world. http://news.fr.msn.com/m6-actualite/article.aspx?cp-documentid=150876789 and http://www.france24.com/en/20091115-violence-erupts-marseille-over-algeria-egypt-football-match were some of the articles, and if you watch the video clip on the second one, I'm pretty sure that's the MacDonald's we were in. Awesome. I was gratified by the reactions of other Americans when I told them what happened--riots aren't normal for them either :)


